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Los Angeles is, and always has been, my home. Growing up south of the city in Manhattan Beach along the Pacific Ocean made for a childhood full of sand dollars, outdoor showers and sunburns. However, though physically close, I was miles away from the city life that filled the downtown streets of LA. Winding freeway routes with more traffic than Justin Bieber’s Twitter page became a path to area’s unexplored. Today, I walk the streets of Downtown LA towards Bottega Louie, eager to bite into colorful macaroons that line the windows; The second Thursday of the month I hop the metro (yes, the LA metro) from Culver to 7th and walk with the crowds through DTLA Artwalk. When I’m feeling momentarily affluent, I book a room at The Bonaventure and sip old fashion’s on the rooftop of Perch, letting the light from neighboring buildings soak in just as fast as the whisky. From west to east, north to south, this entire city has become my playground.

There is no better place to eat gelato from Malibu’s Grom than the western most edge of the country, feet dangling over the sun-drenched waters (except for, maybe, Italy). And it’s a sweet reward after a hike through nearby Escondido Canyon…although the waterfall at the top of the mountain was reward enough. If you make it home in time for happy hour amid the ambient light of Basement Tavern, you’re probably having the best Saturday ever.

Sure, there’s smog and traffic and public transportation is limited, but have you ever driven north on the 405, windows down, music blasting on your way to peruse the Stanley Kubrick exhibit at the LACMA? Or taken a morning swim in the ocean and ended up boarding down the slopes of Big Bear mountain during the afternoon? Pretty sure you can’t experience life quite like we do in LA.

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A Costa Rican New Years

Finding a New Year’s Eve party in Costa Rica was a bit more of a challenge than we’d thought it would be. After finding out that many of the restaurants and bars we’d been recommended were closed for the Holiday, we were left with only a few options. The San Jose Marriott we were staying at was having a party, and while their open-air courtyard looked nice, something about it just didn’t seem right. So we hit the internet. A party at the Wyndham in nearby Herradura caught our eye with their promise of live music all night, a fancy feast and 8 hours of open bar (always enticing). But again, we were hesitant of big hotel New Year’s celebrations. We wanted culture. We wanted energy.

After a few phone calls with some overly enthusiastic and very convincing party planners, we decided to buy tickets for the Wyndham “Under The Sea” 2013 New Year’s Party. And boy am I sure glad we did. After popping a bottle of champagne in the room to start our celebration, Daniel, his mother Anne-Marie, her boyfriend Chris, his two kids, Reed and Summer, and I hopped in a cab and headed to the Wyndham.

What proceeded was one of the best New Year’s Eve celebrations I’ve ever had. The party was full of life. After a delicious dinner, the Costa Rican band Expresso began to play and they didn’t stop until almost 3 in the morning. The rhythm had every one of us on our feet for the entire night, and the female and male leads were some of the most lively and vibrant singers I’ve ever had the pleasure of dancing to. We made Costa Rican and Mexican friends on the dance floor who showed us how to move to the Latin beat, and while we may not have been the most graceful, we definitely had the most fun. Just before midnight, the countdown in Spanish began. And as the clock struck 12, confetti fell from the sky as an eruption of whistles and drums from the arriving Carnival dance troupe welcomed in the New Year.

Here’s to 2013. May yours be filled with as much fun, laughter and love as ours started with.

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A Rainy Camping Adventure in Malibu

A few weeks ago our good friend Keri invited us to come camping at Point Mugu State Park in Malibu. It’s been a while since we’ve camped, so we signed on instantly. Being that I haven’t camped during the winter in a while, I was stoked for some cold-weather adventures; bundled up brisk hikes, warm spiked cider by the fire and one too many s’mores. Plus, Malibu is a hop, skip and a jump away, no long hours in the car required. So last Saturday, after Daniel and I watched the Galaxy win the MLS Cup at the Home Depot Center, we hopped in the car and prepared for our quick trip to Malibu. And of course, the one weekend we decide to go camping is the one weekend it decides to rain in LA.

We drove up the coast in the rain and finally got to the campground around 6:00pm. Everyone had already been there for a few hours, so we were the last to unload and pitch our tent. Which is what we tried to do until I realized I’d forgotten the poles. Typical of many a family camping adventures (forgetting the poles is an honored Hastings tradition), we were stuck improvising. Luckily there was a tree nearby, and I had some bungee cords in the back of the car. Keri’s friend Matt offered to climb the tree and figure out a way to secure the thing. By some stroke of unforeseen genius the night before, I also put two rain tarps in the car. Without those tarps, Keri, Daniel and I would have slept in a puddle. Instead, we slept in this (with only a few minor puddles to report):

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After the tent was up, we drank a few beers while Molly prepared us the best chili I’ve ever eaten in my entire life (Disclaimer: I only recently started liking chili, but even if I had been eating it my whole life, I’m sure I’d still regard this as one of the best). Turns out, Molly is a chef-extraordinaire, and we chowed down under a hanging tarp as rain drops walloped overhead.

After a few more beers, some lively conversation and a little ‘mallow roasting, we retired to our soggy tent. And after a surprisingly decent nights sleep, we awoke dryer than we thought we would. On a trip to the bathroom I noticed a sign that advertised free coffee at the campground host’s campsite. Desperately in need of a cup (it’s a problem), Keri, Daniel and I headed over and met Janice and Papa, the sweetest little campsite hosts you ever did meet. We sat and sipped as Janice told stories of living all over the country in their trusty RV, how this was their 6th winter in Malibu, how their good friend received 3 purple hearts in WWII, how her mother survived the Great Depression, and how their dog, Spike, was so tiny that he needed a bigger name to showcase his true valor. I don’t think I’ve ever received more info in one 15 minute conversation than I did that day with Janice and Papa. One day, maybe I can be the Janice to Daniel’s Papa. We’d be lucky to live such an active and rich life full of travel. But for the time being, we had Janice and Papa’s coffee and seasoned memories. Good enough, I’d say.

After coffee, we took a hike up to the viewpoint to see the extended Malibu coastline. Keri and the gang had done it the day before and said the view was spectacular, but of course, it started raining harder than it had all weekend during our first trip up. After some slipping and sliding, we made our way to the top, and Tim handed each of us a PBR for our valiant efforts. As we stood and sipped, observing the foggy coastline, Molly and Tim reenacted the kissing rain scene from The Notebook. It was pretty spot on, for a couple of drenched kids with PBR’s in their hands.

We had a great weekend reconnecting with nature up in Malibu, and Point Mugu is a beautiful place to set up shop. If you’re ever in the area, cruise up PCH and make your way to this great little campsite. Just remember to bring your poles.

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The Next Steppe

The Next Steppe is the documentary Daniel shot and edited that explores the problem of overgrazing in the Mongolian grasslands. Watch, learn and enjoy!

 

A Bachelorette on the Lake

Since Daniel and I have been back from Asia we’ve yet to find a lack of adventure in these great United States. We’ve explored new restaurants in LA, taken a day trip to the Getty Museum to gawk over art and fantastic views, biked all over our little beach town, and even spent a weekend in Houston meeting Daniel’s new baby nephew, Colin (Congrats to Erin and Steve, he’s cutest baby I’ve ever seen!). Being home ain’t so bad.

Most recently, I headed up to Idaho to celebrate my good friend Ashely’s bachelorette party. I know what you’re thinking, Idaho?? Well, turns out, the little lake town of Coeur d’Alene in Northern Idaho (just 30 minutes from Eastern Washington) is the best little resort town you’ve maybe never heard of. Ashley’s parents have a gorgeous house right on the river, and we spent our days on their boat, wake-surfing, soaking up sun and drinking more margaritas than you can imagine. Big, fluffy white clouds lined the sun-laced sky as we cruised down the river and into the Lake, spotting Bald Eagles through the trees more often than not. I always knew Washington was a beautiful state, but now I know that Northern Idaho shares that same lush, green beauty. With a fun strip of bars to make the summer nightlife ideal for a Bachelorette party, our weekend in Coeur d’Alene was just about perfect. Plus, I got to see about 10 friends from college that I haven’t seen in ages. Rethink what you thought you knew about Idaho, it’s not just potatoes… it’s gorgeous.

These pictures were taking by my talented best friend Morgan (Pookie) Hass. She was snapping photos on film all weekend, and she captured life on the lake quite beautifully.

It Was Probably Inevitable

The blinker was accidentally switched on during its decent and the flickering orange light was the only thing visible in a field full of darkness. They tried to catch their breath, stale from the slight stench of Balinese Arak, in between bouts of laughter. The familiar narrow path was never a problem, until tonight. That last drink was probably unnecessary. How in the world were they going to get their rented motorbike out of this field of rice paddies?

Coming Home

Coming home isn’t going to to be easy. It will be welcomed, seeing familiar faces after 5 months will be one of the greatest joys; sleeping in my bed after months of hostel ‘mattresses’ will be divine; eating my favorite meals I’ve missed will be delicious. But adapting to a life I put on the back burner for so long will be a challenge. Many go on a trip around the world hoping questions will be answered, searching for truths and looking for inspiration. While I left 5 months ago with these thoughts in my head, I return with a completely different bank of knowledge.

I didn’t ‘find’ myself while backpacking. Questions that I left home with are still unanswered. But what I did learn was a deep appreciation for what I have at home, and a greater longing for exploring and searching for things within my own city’s walls.

I have spent a great deal of time on trains, planes and buses, scooting from one city to the next in anticipation for the great sites that lie in front of me. I have seen the Taj Mahal in all it’s glory, and it’s just as stunning in person as they say it is. The beaches of Thailand, albeit overruled by tourism, are just as vivid as the pictures show. The hillsides of Laos are smokey and dry, and the winding roads have made me question whether or not I’ll make it to the next destination. I’ve learned how to navigate through hundreds of motorbikes in the streets of Hanoi, mastering the craft of crossing the street in Vietnam. I have seen the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, and pondered the age of trees growing through the great stone ruins. And I have lived in a house on the rice paddies of Bali, sipping hot Balinese coffee while watching the workers under the sun in their conical hats.

Everyday was a constant search for activities, excitement and newfound stimulation while traveling Asia. I am determined to take that sense of adventure home and introduce it to my daily lifestyle. Work will be work, and I will strive to find uncertainty in the routine I must keep to make money, but I won’t let the seemingly mundane keep me from exploration. Everyone I’ve met while traveling had a funny story to share, a favorite activity to try, a delicious restaurant to suggest. And so do my friends at home. I want to open my eyes to the possibilities that lie just beyond my backyard.

I never want to let the idea of happiness through exploration and the power of creating lasting relationships go. Getting out and seeing something new, or reliving something old with a great friend by your side is the cherry on top. We are fortunate enough to live in a world that is constantly evolving and always thriving, and I want to know my city better than anywhere else.

So for now, I say goodbye to the backpacking lifestyle. It is time to go home and watch the world around me in the same way I do while traveling. I don’t want to take for granted the coastline of the Pacific Ocean, the beautiful sunsets that wash over the Manhattan Beach sky. I want to drive through traffic into LA and revel at the street side graffiti as I make my way up the hills of Hollywood, hoping to catch a view of the downtown skyline all lit up.

Sure, I’ll be saying hello to a life of rent checks and routine, but I’ll welcome it with open arms, as I know the adventure never ends. I have the best of friends awaiting and the whole of California at my fingertips, and I couldn’t be more excited to head home.

[Be sure to check out the blog in the next coming weeks. Daniel is heading to Mongolia to film a documentary and will surely have many stories and photos to share!]

Sunken Treasures

The USAT Liberty, a US Army transport ship, was beached on the shores of Bali after being torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942. There she sat until 1963 when Mount Agung, the island’s great stratovolcano, erupted, pushing the ship off the shore and into the ocean. Today, the shipwreck is one of the most popular dive sites in Bali. And it is worth every dollar spent getting there.

The wreck lies off the shores of Tulamben, a quaint beach town with more dive shops than restaurants. Daniel and I hopped on our motorbike and spent 3 hours driving through Bali. The drive itself, around and past the great Mount Agung, was reason enough to take the journey. But when we dove into the waters off the northeast side of the island, we quickly realized what all the fuss was about.

We were fortunate enough to rent a camera and capture some shots from our dive around the shipwreck. The visibility was pretty limited on our first four dives in Vietnam, we could only see up to 5 meters. The waters of Tulamben were crystal clear, with a visibility of 25 meters, and provided the most breathtaking assortment of vibrant sea life…plus, a shipwreck!

We were able to swim through the USAT Liberty, observing the life that has made it their home, through the ship’s cargo room, past the anchor and around the engine room. The sand below the ship was unique in itself; the volcanic sand was jet black and made everything around it pop just a little bit more. Needless to say, it was the diving experience of a lifetime.

A Walk Through Sayan

After a lazy day at home Daniel and I decided to take a walk through our neighborhood just as the sun was setting. Pale blues and faded yellows painted the sky behind a mix of light and dark clouds as we walked down narrow lanes though the rice paddies. The familiar path seemed endless. For as far as the eye can reach, acres of green fields laid still amongst the roads of Sayan. Save for a few workers finishing up the day, there appeared to be little movement. But on closer inspection, we found the many creatures of the paddies, flittering and fluttering around like kids on a playground.

It’s hard to believe that all of this beauty lies only a few minutes outside the bustling city of Ubud. They call Ubud the cultural epicenter of the Island of Bali, and it is. There are wood-carving shops, art galleries and book stores lining every street, and you can see a traditional Balinese dance show any night of the week. It’s a charming town full of warm people, delicious restaurants and plenty of places to shop and sleep. But staying in the city robs you of the true beauty that is central Bali. If you take that short motorbike ride up to the towns just outside, there is more to see than any art gallery could ever provide.

As twilight fell, Daniel and I hopped over grass and stepped aside for passing bicyclists as we strolled through the fields. The rice paddies have changed a lot since we arrived in Sayan just over two weeks ago. When we first moved in, the paddies were barren and muddy. Over the next few days, workers cultivated the land, readying it for a new crops to be planted. In just a few weeks, new colors of the land have emerged. As we walk, bright green leaves sprout from the ground amid fields of water, looking almost as if they’re floating. Daniel and I watch as curious little bugs hop across the reflection of the clouds on the water. When we look up, swarms of small, black birds that could be mistaken for bats fly every which way, trying their best to avoid our heads. In an instant, two white herons fly by and are lost in a tree before we know it. Crickets chirp and the familiar sounds of roosters crowing filled our ears, per usual. We’re used to the roosters by now, and we’ve come to learn that it doesn’t matter what time of day it is, they’re always crowing.

What seems tranquil from afar is really a vibrant and lively place for the many inhabitants of the paddies. Yet amongst all of the sounds and movement, there is an overwhelming peacefulness. One that I’m certain is only found in Sayan.

A House on the Rice Paddies

[Photos of our house are below!]

Two days of searching in shirt-sticking sweat was getting the best of Daniel and I. We knew finding a house to rent for one month in Bali wasn’t going to be easy, considering our last-minute searching and price constraints, but we didn’t factor in the heat. After looking at yet another house that didn’t quite fit the bill, we were ready to give up for the day.

As we started our descent down one of the many steep staircases we’d walked up, we were approached by a man who asked if we were looking for a house. We were, in fact, and he happened to have one to show us. His smile, like many of the Balinese people we had met, was warm and inviting and his enthusiasm, expressed in broken English, was too charming to deny. Daniel and I looked at each other and decided, ‘okay, one more.’

The man walked us down multiple long, winding lanes before stepping through a large stone gate into a compound with a few houses. A woman inside, the elderly man’s daughter, showed us to one of the houses just down the path. On first glance, it was a pleasant and peaceful space, quite nice for for the price. Daniel and I immediately realized this house had potential…until we asked to see the kitchen. And herein was the problem with many of the other bungalow’s we’d looked at in the past two days: No kitchen. All this house had was a small refrigerator for storing a few items.

We came to Bali not only to cruise through the island’s beauty on a motorbike and jump into the ocean every chance we got, but to rent a house for one month to relax, read, write and cook after 4 months of constant movement. Having a kitchen was one of our biggest excitements. We wanted to walk through the local markets and haggle with shop-keepers for the best priced veggies and fruit to fill our fridge. We wanted to cook up our own dinner each night, trying to recreate the meals we’d eaten throughout Southeast Asia. A kitchen was a necessity.

So we thanked the father and daughter duo and walked out of the complex back into the heat, eager to sit in front of our rooms fan for a few minutes (or hours). But we were followed out by the man who said he had one more house to show us, his other daughter’s property. We were reluctant at first, and really didn’t feel like seeing another house. However, Daniel and I eventually looked at each other, shrugged, and followed the man down another path.

We were told that this house was a little further away in the town of Sayan, just outside of Ubud, so we would need to ride our motorbike over, and could he have a ride? I told Daniel to drive himself and the elderly man over to the house while I waited for him to come back and swoop me up. After 15 minutes, I began to get anxious. How far away was this house, and was it even worth the wait?

Finally, Daniel showed up with a beaming smile on his face, told me to hop on and whisked me away down a path that would lead to the beautiful Balinese villa I’m currently sitting in.

Daniel told me right away that I was going to love this house as we sped down narrow paths; it was charming and spacious and, best of all, had a great kitchen. When I walked through the stone gates and saw the house for the first time, I knew it was perfect. We met the old man’s other daughter, Wayan, and she told me to follow her inside.

Light flooded in through the giant glass front doors as we stepped into the house. A daybed sat to our left next to a wood dining room table with 4 chairs. To the right was the kitchen, closed in by a long, clay-colored tile bar, filled with every amenity we’d ever need to cook up some fancy concoctions. Next to the kitchen was a door that lead to the bathroom, an open air space with a large stone-lined shower, bathtub and a few geckos hanging out.

Up the staircase lead us to the bright and airy master bedroom. An elegant dark wood bed with sheer white curtains hanging from the bedposts sat in front of two windows that looked out onto the lush gardens that lined the front of the house. A matching dark wood vanity sat in front of another set of windows to the side of the bed, as well as a giant wardrobe, waiting for me to fill it with my (meager assortment of) things.

A welcomed gust of wind entered the room as Wayan turned around and opened two large wooden doors, showing us the view from the balcony. Countless green rice paddy fields stretched from the edge of the house and on for miles. And just beyond them, on the horizon, was the ocean. It was breathtaking.

Daniel and I picked our jaws up off the floor, walked back in and told Wayan we’d love to rent the house. We were floored by how inexpensive the price for one month was and asked her if we could move in the next day.  With a yes, some handshakes and big smiles from Wayan and her father, we hoped on our bike, headed to our guesthouse and began packing up our backpacks. The next day we moved into our dream-like villa in the town of Sayan on the island of Bali.

The Choeung Ek Cambodian Killing Fields

Until recently, I  was largely unaware of Cambodia and it’s modern history.  The country and its people have been through a terrible ordeal and its amazing to see glowing smiles on the other side.

Outside Phnom Penh, Corey and I toured Cambodia’s famous Killing Fields, which was one of the many sites that the newly established Khmer Rouge began their acts of genocide in 1975.  The middle class and the educated were targeted first.  Anyone seen as a threat was shipped by bus to an undisclosed location, brutally murdered, and tossed into a grave awaiting hundreds of souls.

The mass graves were discovered after the Vietnamese removed the Khmer Rouge from power in 1979.  Thousands of Cambodian remains were unearthed and each fragment detailed the story of the Khmer Rouge’s secret genocide.  Monuments and markers have been created to further share Cambodia’s story.

The first thing you notice when walking through the site is nature having run amok.  It’s hard to imagine the horrors that once occurred on a landscape that is so overgrown.  The prisoners were marched in on the same footpaths we traversed.   We soon noticed the grassy crevices in the earth where thousands had been excavated.  Crude weapons which were used to beat the innocent to death hung on display.  In memoriam, beautiful wristbands were placed on a tree which acted as a killing surface for hundreds of infants.

Simply walking through the country sides you can see Cambodia playing a game of catch up.  They have practically just begun reorganization, after having wrestled their government back from the Vietnamese and ousting the Khmer Rouge’s seat from the UN in 1993.

A Backpacker’s Wardrobe

Well, it’s happened. I’ve reached an inevitable impasse, one I fear is a point of no return. I knew it’d eventually come. I had glimpses of its arrival while walking the streets of Hong Kong almost 3 months ago. I found myself starting to think about it more and more while perusing the markets in Luang Prabang. And finally, I snapped in Hanoi.

I am officially sick of every item of clothing in my backpack and there is simply nothing I can do about it.

It was easier at first to accept the fact that what I was able to bring on a 5 month journey was limited to one backpack. I wasn’t too worried about it during our first month in India-I wasn’t sick of the clothes yet- and I had a bit of space in my pack to stuff in some newly purchased skirts and shirts. And in Thailand we spent a great deal of the month on beaches, running around barefoot wearing not much more than a bathing suit and a sarong.

It was when we got to the great land-locked Laos that I started becoming overly conscious of the same 4 or so outfits I was wearing day in and day out. My white tank top morphed into a faint shade of grey; my poorly stitched Indian skirt began to rip; I even grew sick of my favorite pair of electric blue high-waisted shorts, which I didn’t think was possible (I really loved those shorts). And day by day, more and more complaints trickled out of me like obnoxious, unwanted drops from a leaky faucet. I’m fairly positive that Daniel would gladly pay large sums of money to never hear me discuss my lack of a wardrobe again.

It was when we got to Hanoi that I really lost it. We hadn’t been in a big city in quite some time, and the bustling city vibe opened my eyes to the world of fashion I’d so quickly forgotten. Gone were the dread-locked backpackers in their ali-baba pants and their Tivas. In were the slender, straight-haired Vietnamese girls, wearing make up and heels. I was dying to fit in.

So I did what I always do- maybe the only thing I could do-I bought a scarf (I have way too many scarfs, at least one from every country I’ve ever visited. Apparently, it’s my go-to). There were many practical reasons for the purchase, them being it was cold and I didn’t have one on at the time. But also, it was a mustard-colored, long, cozy looking thing that could help scratch the itch. It’s color might spice up the dullest, worn-out items in my 5-month ‘wardrobe.’

Well, it kept me complaint free…for about 5 days. I wore that thing in and out, day and night, and it was almost enough to satisfy me. That is, until we hopped a plane from the North of Vietnam and stepped off into the blazing heat of the Saigon.

The heat has yet to subside, and I write today from a beach town in Cambodia, wearing the same electric blue shorts with the same grey-white tank. No hint of newness, no room in my pack to buy something new, and certainly no need for a mustard-colored scarf.

But then I look up from the table at the glistening turquoise sea and realize one thing: This is a pretty good compromise for a closet full of clothes.

The Oblivion of Our Mortality

“Photographs are the images of history rescued from the oblivion of mortality.”
-Neil Sheehan

A few days ago we ventured into the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City where we could see upclose military armorments, propaganda, news bulletins and photography from around the world.

Upstairs on the top floor was an exhibit entitled “Requiem,”containing images captured by some of the world’s most daring photographers.

The exhibit was extraordinary. The selection of images chosen by Tim Page, an American photojournalist, told a story that penetrated your psyche. With my obvious love for conflict photojournalism aside, the collection appealed to me for presenting the ups and downs for everyone involved in the war.

The photographs each told stories of the love, joy, rage, grief and mourning found deep inside the hearts of the many involved. Some faces I saw went on to lead fulfilling lives in both Vietnam and the U.S. Other faces would not take another breath a few days past the moment of exposure. Their eyes stare through the frame meeting the gaze of the observer whom inches by. A haunting feeling floats in the air, reminding us of our own mortality.

Stepping back from a single frame, the collection itself speaks a very different story. Together the images allow the viewer a glimpse of the challenges these photographers faced. After beatings and the hours spent to repair their smashed cameras, these photographers repeatedly marched off to document the war in action.

How does a war photographer simply stand back and capture an image of gruesome struggle? How does he or she not lend a hand? Maybe that person knows the images in the camera will allow the rest of the world to examine the hardships of war.

“…and so often I wonder whether it is my right to capitalize, as I feel, so often, on the grief of others. But then I justify, in my own particular thoughts, by feeling that I can contribute a little to the understanding of what others are going through; then there is a reason for doing it”
-Larry Burrows, an English photographer who was shot down in Laos.

Many did not quite understand the conflict in Vietnam until these images circulated on the covers of magazines. At one time these images emphatically announced, while today they serve as a reminder.

We as a people tend to move day to day ready to tackle the next project. Our attention is constantly pulled in every direction as time pushes us forward faster. Each photo of ours that we come across in the storm of daily life serves as a reminder of the moments we chose to hold on to. A photo brings me right back to the day I ventured into a foreign landscape or reacquaints me with the feelings I held while I stood in front of or behind the lens. Perhaps, if I’m lucky, I can use one of my photos to successfully share my thoughts with another.

Our Last Bowl of Pho

Yesterday we said goodbye to Vietnam with one last bowl of pho.

Pho (pronounced ‘fuh’), a Vietnamese rice noodle soup, has been a favorite dish of mine since I first discovered it while living in Seattle. Seattle is full of Vietnamese pho shops, and the soup makes for a perfect lunch on a cold, wet day. I couldn’t wait to get to Vietnam to eat a bowl of my favorite soup.

One month ago we crossed the boarder from Laos and entered the Vietnamese town of Dien Bien Phu, hungry and ready for pho. Unfortunately, our first bowl wasn’t great. The cook at the tiny lunch spot we stopped in made our pho from two bags of pre-packaged ramen-noodles and spices. We left unsatisfied.

We arrived in Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam, hopeful that a delicious bowl of pho was waiting for us. But again, we were disappointed after trying out a recommended restaurant. This bowl was better than the last, but still lacked that pho taste that we’d grown to love. I got worried. Was the pho I regarded as the famous Vietnamese dish at home an Americanized version of the real thing? Was calling pho ‘Vietnamese’ like calling Taco Bell ‘Mexican’? Delicious, yes, but not traditional?

But then we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City. Formerly known (and still referred to by locals) as Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City is a vibrant metropolis unlike Hanoi. Right away, the contrast between Northern and Southern Vietnam became evident. The buildings were bigger, the pace was faster and the pho was exactly what we were looking for. As we sat down at a food stall in the heart of Saigon, we ordered two bowls of pho and instantly recognized the familiar tastes of the soup we know and love. In the North, pho was lacking the plate of garnishes and sauces that, when added, really enhance the flavor. In Saigon, when our waitress brought out two bowls of freshly prepared pho and a plate full of basil, lime, chili and hoisin sauce, we knew it’d be good. And it was.

We said goodbye to Vietnam with one last bowl of pho at that little food stall in Saigon we frequented regularly during our visit. Pho-king delicious!

We’re Scuba Certified!

After a 4 Day PADI Open Water Scuba Diving Course, Daniel and I are officially Scuba Certified!

Getting ready to jump in with our instructor, Ross

Suiting up and checking gear

When we got to the beach town of Nha Trang, Vietnam, it was POURING rain. So we decided to try and wait out the storm for a few days before signing up for the scuba course we wanted to take. When we realized the storm wasn’t going anywhere fast, we headed to Rainbow Divers and signed up anyway, hoping the weather would clear before we got in the ocean. We had no such luck on our first two days of the course. With relentless rain soaking the streets, we spent two mornings in the classroom learning and two afternoons in the pool doing our ‘confined dives’ to practice the skills we had learned. We froze our butts off in the pool, and had little hope that we’d be diving in sunshine and clear waters on our 3rd and 4th days.

But, to our surprise, we woke up on the 3rd day of our course to perfect sunshine and blue skies. At 7am, we hopped on the dive boat and spent the next two days diving under the sun. We did 2 dives a day, practicing our skills in open water, exploring the ocean and seeing some pretty amazing sea life.

Because of the storm, the visibility underwater wasn’t as great as it usually is in Nha Trang. However, we were able to see up to 5 meters while diving, and that was enough to catch some incredible creatures. We saw a jellyfish the size of a truck tire, lion fish, frog fish, cuttlefish, tons of nemo fish living in their anemone, a moray eel, starfish, big purple sea urchins, a moorish idol, two puffer fish, a scorpion fish, a school of barracudas, an adorable seahorse, and a few of the most interesting little creatures called nudibranch.

Now that we’re certified, we’re dreaming of diving in even clearer water and seeing more of what the underwater world has to offer. Next stop, diving in Bali!

The First Green Leaf

Two years ago, after being inspired by one organization’s work to save the homes of millions of slum dwellers, a team of filmmakers and I traveled to New Delhi, India to capture a story that needed to be told.

This organization is Kislay, which in Hindi translates to “The First Green Leaf”. Kislay and its volunteers are dedicated to bettering the lives of the poorest people on Earth.

The moments I experienced while traveling through the slum walls are etched into my mind forever. The faces of the slum dwellers alone told me stories before their voices were even heard.

Two years later money and support is still needed for Kislay’s cause. Below is a link with more information on how you can help. Thanks for showing your support.

http://www.indiegogo.com/The-First-Green-Leaf

Below is a montage of images captured while in the slums of New Delhi.

Around Vietnam

Ice Cream at Hoang Kiem Lake, Hanoi

John McCain’s Flight Suit, Hoa Lo Prison, Hanoi

Coffee in Hanoi

Notre Dame Cathedral, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Motorbike Rides through Saigon

Watching the Rain, Bus Stop Outside of Hanoi

Snake Venom Whisky Shots, Anyone?

Cooking in Chiang Mai

Thai food is delicious. If you’ve ever indulged in South East Asia’s most famous cuisine, then you understand the love many have for the spicy flavors and tastes of Thailand. Daniel and I love it so much that we knew we had to witness first hand how Thai food is prepared. A few weeks ago, we spent the day cooking, learning and eating at the Thai Kitchen Cookery Center in Chaing Mai.

We signed up for a course that offered lessons on how to cook 4 Thai dishes of your choice, chosen from a selection of many. Deciding on 4 dishes was a challenge. We wanted to learn how to cook every one of the Thai dishes we’d eaten day in and day out for the past month. After much chagrin, we finally decided on 4 that satisfied our cravings: Green Papaya Salad, Penang Curry with Chicken, Pad Thai with Shrimp and Tofu and Tom Yum Soup with Shrimp.

After donning ourselves in the red aprons handed to us by our friendly Thai instructors, we set off to a table with giant mortar and pestles awaiting our arrival. I’d seen these archaic contraptions being used to make Papaya Salad throughout the country and was excited at being able to finally use one myself. Our first move was to slice the raw papaya before we could begin mashing all the ingredients together. Once the slicing was done, we added the garlic, small thai chills, coconut sugar, long beans, tomato, dried shrimp, lime juice, fish sauce and peanuts and began mashing. While doing so, I began trying to devise a plan to get one of these oversized mortar and pestles home. However, with limited room in my backpack, I was forced to leave the contraption behind as Daniel and I headed to another table to eat our Papaya Salads. It was a fairly easy recipe without a ton of leg work, and just as tasty as the one’s we’ve eaten from the street stalls.

Post-papaya, we were taken to a table to prepare all the ingredients for the rest of our dishes. We spent a while chopping chills and coriander and slicing ginger and lemongrass with our fantastically animated and lively Thai cooking teacher. She told us stories of past students who’ve come back to Chaing Mai many times, always visiting the cooking school with tales of successful dinner parties, all thanks to her lessons. 

After the chopping, it was time to head to the stove. We grabbed our trays of ingredients and nabbed a spot behind two stoves with woks placed atop. The wok is vital to Thai cooking, and gets plates on the table quickly. Because our cooking process would be rather speedy, our teachers wanted us to cook our dishes one after another, instead of stopping to eat after each dish was prepared. We began our stove cooking with the Pad Thai. Thai food is traditionally cooked with soy bean oil instead of olive oil because it can withstand higher heat, and high heat is the standard for Thai cooking. After heating the oil for 20 seconds and tossing in the shrimp, tofu and rice noodles, we added the remaining ingredients including garlic, lime, bean sprouts, sweet spring onion, fish sauce and soy sauce. We finished the dish off by cracking and scrambling in an egg, thus creating our second Thai meal. My pad thai was a little burnt, I think I turned my heat up too high (pictured on the left), but Daniels looked perfect (on the right).

Next up was the Penang Curry. Since we didn’t have the time to prepare it ourselves, the paste for the Penang Curry was already made for us. However, we were told that making the paste was an easy process and can be stored for one week in the refrigerator or a couple of months in the freezer, so it’s good to prepare in bulk. We fried our chicken first and then added the eggplant balls (strange, odd tasting little things), slices of large red chili, sweet basil leaves, kaffir lime leaves, curry paste and coconut cream, creating a smell that was more inviting than the look of the dish inside my wok.

And lastly, we prepared our Tom Yum Soup. Like the curry paste, the Tom Yum Soup paste was prepared before we started cooking and we were told it was also a simple recipe and could be stored. We first scooped some of the paste and a bowl of coconut cream into the wok. As we turned the heat up, we were instructed to let it boil until an aroma filed the air and we could smell a spicy ting. This smell meant the soup was ready for the next ingredients. We then added the shrimp, small thai chilis, tomatoes, mushrooms, coriander and cilantro, ginger, lemongrass and kaffier lemon leaves into the wok. As fun as the cooking had been, the smell was so inviting that I couldn’t wait to dig in.

Finally, we took our three plates of Thai food over to a table and were given some jasmine rice to eat the curry with. The meal looked daunting, there was so much food in front of us. We were skeptical that we wouldn’t be able to finish it all, but fear not-we did. And every bite was more delicious than the next. The Penang Curry was just spicy enough, the Tom Yum just hot enough and the Pad Thai (although a bit burnt) still tasted good.

At the end of our meal, we were given celebratory shots of something that tasted like lime juice mixed with tequila (not good), and two certificates with our names printed on them stating that we had successfully completed the course. I’ll probably hang mine on my wall at home, right next to my degree. And as we were walking out, full and educated, we were each handed a Thai Kitchen Cookery Center cookbook, complete with the ingredients and recipes for our four meals, as well as many other Thai dishes. So prepare yourselves for our return, friends, we’re having a Thai Dinner Party!

Observations (2)

Taking the journey of a lifetime comes complete with many things: seeing world wonders up close, jumping off of cliffs into turquoise waters, meeting new friends from all around the world. But a travelers journey is also complete with something that often goes unmentioned: homesickness. On the off moments between the amazing new sights, sounds and tastes is that slight longing for the familiar. Wishing you could cozy up in your own bed at the end of a long day, especially when you find yourself sick. There is nothing like wanting to teleport yourself home to your mom’s chicken noodle soup and the big, inviting couch at home when you’ve caught a cold in Laos.

Thankfully, I’ve got Daniel by my side. My link to the familiar. He’s there for me to grab the closet thing they have to noodle soup (a mediocre minestrone) and to pick up cold medicine from the local pharmacy. I’m not quite sure I could have gotten through the past two and a half months (or the past 3 days being sick) without him.

While these bouts of homesickness fade rapidly with windy bus rides to captivating new cities, they’re still part of traveling. Currently, I dream of carne asada burritos and a decent glass of red wine. No matter where you are in the world, a slice of home is calling.

Expats in Pushkar

F. Scott Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein made it seem so glamorous. But they were expats in Paris. In Pushkar, a small religious town in Northern India, these expatriates seem, at first, lost. Maybe they want to be lost, having misplaced their passports years ago with no intention of finding them again.

Pushkar is no Paris. The motorbike horns honk louder than the shopkeepers yell. The Indian boys, trying to make a buck, will take you down to the sacred lake and ‘bless you’ with the holy water, only to ask for a large donation they inevitably pocket. It’s an incredibly religious town, strictly vegetarian, without a drop of alcohol to be found. And for twice a day, three hours in the morning and three hours in the evening, the whole city loses power.

But in spite of it all, there is a certain charm that resonates. If you get to know the pesky shopkeepers, they’ll light up as they tell you all about their exporting business and how two Californians, like yourselves, placed a large order for their upscale boutique just last week. They’ll offer you chai, free of charge, as they explain how to play Cricket and slowly become someone you won’t likely forget. And even the weathered expats, who walk the main bazaar up and down until the day is done, smile as they wave to old friends and new acquaintances. They’re content here, it has become home. While I can hear home calling, these souls have traded in traditional for a life of dodging roaming cows and playing chess at the side street cafes.

No, Pushkar is not Paris. There is no glam, there is no wine, there is no busy speakeasy playing Cole Porter from the gramophone. But there is a different something here. Something just as enchanting.

 

Observations (1)

Watching an Indian man tie a scarf is like watching a sushi chef prepare a roll. Extremely precise and delicate, cautious. And in the end, the finished product turns out better than anything you’d ever be able to produce. It’s an art. Perfected with time, and, most of all, patience. I think that’s where I lack the ability to effectively tie a scarf. I’m too impatient. Maybe after this trip, it’ll be something I master. The patience, that is.

Thai Travel


We finished up our travels through Thailand and here is a new video that grabs some of the moments we shared.